When in Turkey...

Unlike the European destinations we have visited thus far, where the local populations share a similar genetic history and physical appearance to Americans, Turkey was a distinctly different place. Exploring a country where 99% of the population is Muslim and foreigners are easily identified because of obvious physical differences was an incredible opportunity to experience a culture and people that are exotic (for lack of a better term) to us. As I've discussed before, each country and region in Europe offers its own set of unique cultural characteristics. The "old man returning cold soup at a deli" vibe that emanates from Czechs is different than the easy going ora of the Swedes, which also contrasts to the rather intense, motivated nature of Germans. But, despite lingual and historical differences, most European cities have a certain feel that surely results from their geographic proximity. Turkey, on the other hand, is completely different. It boasts a tremendously rich culture, an exciting, bustling one that was strikingly foreign to me. It is an energetic city, beaming with vibrant music, hearty food, and interminable character. Although 15 out of the Turkey's 74 Million inhabitants live in Istanbul, it does not serve as the political capital of the country.

We had several drinks on the rooftop terrace from which I shot this video. The Bosphorous Straight, with dozens of boats, ranging from small fishing vessels to the largest tankers in the world, lit up the horizon. Behind us, the beautifully lit Blue Mosque during the evening Call to Prayer. There were several other Mosques in the area and they all seemed to be competing, outdoing each other with volume wars for the loudest song-prayers. 

Traveling to a predominantly Muslim nation challenged the misperceptions and stereotypes that I, as most Americans in what has become a dangerously polarized world, hold about Islam. Despite the fact that there are over 3,000 Mosques in the country and all but 1% of the population are practicing Muslims, the Turks are a far cry from fundamental extremists that our media gives disproportionate, undeserving attention to. They are a smiling, outgoing, helpful, energetic people who had few, if any problems with Americans. There was no great Clash of Civilizations, rather a fun, friendly society that could have been found in New York or L.A. Extremist Islam is scary to the average Turk and represents a danger to their far more liberal way of life.

It was impressive that they were able to perfectly preserve their culture in the face of thorough Westernization. Despite globalization and a flourishing pop culture, American pop legends the Hansen Brothers and Vanilla Ice are still untouchable by Turkish wannabes. Nevertheless, girls, wearing the same boots that are all the fashion rage in the U.S. smoked water pipes and drank tea while listening to traditional Turkish music. I also quickly learned that the Turkish and Arabic people are completely different, and despite the unifying force of Islam between the two ethnicities, they don't get along well. I was under the impression that because the Koran is read and studied solely in Arabic, that any Muslim would at least have some elementary grasp of the language. Misguided, I tried using the little conversational Arabic I had from my few semesters studying it at St. Lawrence, but most people (in near perfect English) quickly asserted that they did not care for Arabs or thought I was a U.S. soldier going to Iraq, which was not the persona I wanted to have in any Muslim country, no matter how liberal. Needless to say, I hastily abandoned that approach.

Tucker and I with a group of Turkish kids who thought Tucker was James Van Der Beek, teenage heartthrob from Dawson's Creek and Varsity Blues. They were rather disappointed, however, when they found out he wasn't the American pop culture superstar and Turkish hero they so admired. You be the judge...

Tucker and I met his Dad and business assistant on Thursday night and because they had meetings and obligations throughout Friday, we went on a tour of the city with a private guide. Several years ago, the Daugherty's spent two weeks in Turkey traveling across the region with a guide, Mahmet, who quickly became a close family friend. Mahmet, who owns a travel company in Istanbul, had everything arranged for us, which was spectacular. Tucker and I spent Friday with a 26 year-old guide, Ulkul, who showed us not just the important sites, but everything about the city and culture from a student's perspective. Tucker's Dad and his assistant, free from work for the weekend joined us Saturday and we all got to spend the day with Mahmet, our own expert/comedian. I hesitate to use the term "tour" to describe our experiences with Mahmet and Ulkul, because it was so much more than that. What we learned in two days not just about the city, but about Turkish culture, history, politics, and religion was remarkable. Talking with Turks about American politics, the Armenian genocide, The War in Iraq, and a number of other topics gave us an insight that no traditional tour or travel guidebook could have possibly scratched the surface of. Simply put, Mahmet was the man. He was passionate about the city and its history, intelligent, and most importantly a lot of fun.

The five of us in front of the Blue Mosque. From left to right: Myself, Liz, Tucker, Mr. Daugherty, and Mahmet.

The sites in Istanbul are spectacular; although the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia are the two iconic superstars of the city, there are a dozen other mosques of comparable grandeur and beauty. We saw several palaces and visited some incredible museums all the while constantly diving into the culture with Mahmet at the helm. Although Prague and other European cities have an incredible history, the story of Istanbul/Constantinople, is so much more encompassing and majestic. The rise and fall of civilizations and the biggest empires human history has ever seen all happened here at this intersection of Europe and Asia. Byzantine walls from 700 years ago now support traffic signs. Mosques from 1400 still hold regular services. Stories of expansion, betrayal, crusades, and some of the most epic battles on history's grandest scope all took place in what has been the capitol of both the Roman and Ottoman Empires. Every new construction project in the city is invariably halted by excavation projects because the entire city sits atop several thousand years of history. Where a hotel might aim to place an addition hides a Byzantine compound from 400 AD.

Tucker and I inside the Ikea store in front of the rugs we bought for Hewlett suite 307. Not quite, these were Turkish rugs from the 17th Century that probably took years to create. Right after the picture was taken, Tucker sang "I Can Show You the World," from Disney's Aladin.

Before you dismiss me as some creep taking pictures of little kids, the cats in this photo are all stray. I thought it was interesting how there were tons of dogs and cats that roamed the city, and that they were all fed and cared for by the people who lived there. Big muts harmlessly roamed the streets, getting attention and food where they could. I was reluctant to put this photo up, not because I could face pedophile charges in a Turkish criminal court, but because my mom may very well change the destination of her November airline ticket from Prague to Istanbul, adopt a dozen or so of these little guys, and spend the rest of her life in seclusion with no contact with the outside world...

A shot from inside the Grand Bazaar, the largest covered bazaar in the world. It's complex system of halls and corridors house some 4,000 shops and all the scarfs, 'I love Istanbul' shirts, and knock off FC Barcelona jerseys you could ever want.

Tucker and Mr. Daugherty in front of the Blue Mosque at night.

The view from inside Hagia Sofia, which is now a national museum. Originally a church, the Ottoman Turks made some improvements of their own after taking the city from the Romans in the mid-1400's. Mosaics of Christian scenes were covered, minarets were added, and the whole place got a splash of Turkish flavor. The mosaics have since been uncovered, which reveals an interesting intersection between the two religions.

I continually find myself looking for synonyms for adjectives like "unbelievable" or "remarkable," because everything I've had the opportunity to experience in the last three and a half weeks has been such. Coming back to the Czech Republic after our weekend adventures is always comforting (although returning after Bratislava was considerably more so). Prague continues to amaze me and although we've all acclimated well and been here for quite some time, I'm still infatuated with the city. Hopefully, in light of several State Department warnings, our trip to Paris next weekend will go smoothly.